Climbing Kilimanjaro - Day 2
The last time I slept in a tent was in 2020, at a campground with bathrooms and showers and with everything else we needed in our car 10 feet away from us. We had a cooler of beer, our dog, fresh water, ample firewood, and our pillows from home. Camping on the Kili trek was different in almost every way, the least of which being that we were in Tanzania. The first night in the tent seemed to last an eternity, which would have been wonderful if my body would have used that time to sleep.
Habari za asubuhi!
After a restless night of tossing and turning, navigating anxiety spirals, and wishing for morning to “just get here already”, we got our first Kilimanjaro wakeup call from Jimmy with greetings of “Habari za asubuhi”, which means good morning in Swahili.
The saying is pronounced ha-BAR-ee zah ahs-ooh-BOO-hee and it took me many days to get it right. I would always forget the second word “za” when saying it, and the porters would smile and help me correct my pronunciation. Whenever you travel to another country, it’s so important, and a show of respect, to learn and use a few phrases in the local language. It allows you to further connect with the culture and the locals, and in our case with the people responsible for keeping us safe, healthy, and fed for an entire week in the wilderness.
Jimmy greeted us with his megawatt smile and kind face, handing us our coffee and tea through the tent opening as we stayed halfway in our sleeping bags. As we sipped our hot beverages and started analyzing our gear for the upcoming day, I realized I was feeling so much better than the day before. Even without sleep, I think my mind was able to acclimate to this adventure and wake up with a better sense of calm, certainty, and healthy anticipation.
About 30 minutes after getting our hot beverages, Jimmy returned with red, plastic bowls for each of us that were filled with hot water for washing. In the mornings, I would usually wash my hands and rinse my face before continuing to get ready for the day. I had one pair of pants and a flannel shirt that I slept in the whole trip, so I got out of those and put on my fresh hiking clothes. On Day Two I didn’t repeat any clothing items from the day before except for my wool bra. After we got ourselves dressed, we packed our sleeping bags, pillows, and liners back into their compression sack, then put it and everything else we wouldn’t need for the day back into our duffels. Finally getting ourselves all together, we unzipped the tent and stepped into camp.
It was hard to tell whose tents were whose outside of our immediate cluster, because the dense trees required groups to split up a bit in order to have proper places to put up a tent. Mine and Danny’s tent was almost touching Kim and Katie’s tent, with the mess tent a few feet away and the bathroom tent about 20 feet away. We all met in the mess tent for our first breakfast as a group, and we were pleasantly surprised at how much food they brought us. There was more hot water for tea, fruit, bread, pancakes (that tasted like funnel cake batter - excellent with peanut butter and jam), porridge (much more liquidy and smooth than oatmeal we’re used to in the US), hotdogs, and eggs. Danny and I brought several “goo” packets from REI that varied in flavor from berries to cacao to lemon cashew, with the intention of putting it into our morning porridge for additional calories and flavor. If you’ve never had one of these goo packets, it’s basically a thick paste that can be consumed on its own or added into other items, like we did with the porridge.
Our first brekkie on the trail!
Machame Camp to Shira Cave Camp
Soon after we finished breakfast, Abuu and LuLu came into the tent to do our morning health check and prep us for the day. On the morning of Day Two, my blood oxygen was at 98 and my heart rate was at 94 - I was glad to see my heart rate decrease a bit from the night before and my blood oxygen holding on strong. We left the mess tent to make our final bathroom breaks, get our Camelbaks filled from the treated water bucket, and start making our way to the trail.
Abuu was leading us for the day, and he set off “pole pole” (pronounced POLE-ay POLE-ay, and means “slowly slowly” in Swahili). Only as we were navigating through the campsite on our way to the trail did we realize how sprawling the campsite really was. We saw only a small portion of it when we arrived yesterday, and there were sections of tents in every direction. There were some groups that had 12 client tents alone! Once we got into a clearing near the ranger station, we got our first glimpse of Kibo Peak - the largest “cone” of Kilimanjaro. It was just the burst of energy and excitement I needed to fuel our very steep climb for the day. The distance we were hiking on Day Two was a little over three miles, but we were gaining 2756 feet in that distance so it was nothing but UP. Abuu gave us a lot of time for breaks and snacks, which was exactly what we needed to continue acclimating our bodies and minds.
Starting off day two, with Kibo Peak peeking out behind us.
We started off hiking beneath the cover of the trees, up a steep and rocky trail. We tried to stay to the left side of the trail so that the porters would have space to pass us on the right at any time. We hadn’t met the majority of our porter team yet, but we’d soon learn that after we left camp that morning, they would break down the entire camp, pack it up, pass us on the trail, and have camp set up at the next site all before our arrival. They are powerhouses and most of them do this job with a bright smile on their faces and no complaints.
Overall, the hiking on Day Two was more challenging than Day One, mainly because it was so steep and unrelenting. There were much larger steps required to get up and over rocky sections, so our hamstrings and glutes were absolutely activated. The trail started in the shade and then soon got into bright sunlight, so sunscreen was non negotiable. I carried a small push up tube of 50 UPF sunscreen to apply to my nose and cheeks easily, but my fair skin ended up getting burnt anyways. The weirdest spot that I got sunburn that day was on my right wrist, where it looked like the sunscreen was rubbed off from constantly grabbing my pack or putting stuff inside it. My wrist wasn’t an area where I thought about reapplying sunscreen but it goes to show you that you can and will get burnt if you aren’t properly prepared. Sunscreen is a MUST have for anyone climbing Kilimanjaro, no matter what your skin tone or type may be.
Always Measure Backwards
We continued climbing up, not sure how far we’d gone or how far we had yet still to go. We got to an area where we started peeking above the trees, and were greeted with our first sweeping views of the trip. In Tanzania, there aren’t mountain ranges like there are in other parts of the world. The mountains are free-standing, meaning they stand alone without any other mountains (or volcanoes, in Mount Kilimanjaro’s case) nearby. We were able to see where the rainforest ended and the moorland began, and we got our first view of Mount Meru in the distance.
Team Altitoots with Mount Meru in the distance.
One of our next stops was a popular one, as there was a short climb up the side of the trail to a rocky outlook. We spent a few minutes there taking in the scenery, embracing the blazing sun (not the best idea for my skin), and soaking in every emotion running through us. This was the first day we could start seeing the progress we were making. We could look along the trail down the mountain to where our previous stop was, then further down to where our camp was. Soon camp was no longer in sight, but we had those visual markers to help us celebrate how far we had come. Being able to measure backwards was so important for us mentally, because there were times where we felt we were climbing for hours with no end in sight, yet when we turned around to see our progress, we were always impressed with how far we’d come.
Measuring backwards would become a mindset for us, especially as we continued to get closer to Kibo in the days to come. When we’d feel a bit overwhelmed at how far we had to go, we’d pause and remember how far we’d already come, how much we’d already gained, and use that as fuel to keep us focused.
We got some group pictures, ate some more snacks, then continued along the trail toward our camp for the night. We had about 30 minutes left in the hike when I started having chest pains, something I’m used to and wasn’t overly concerned about at the time even though it was really uncomfortable. I wasn’t sure if it was the physical exertion, the food, or something else, but I popped in a piece of gum to try to relieve some of the pressure (it helped a little) and also took a Pepto in case it was heartburn. Turns out, it was heartburn, and the cause of the heartburn was something I’d learn the next morning when it returned with a vengeance.
After our short break, a couple of our porters met us along the trail and offered to take any of our packs - I gladly handed mine over for the final half mile before camp. We soon got to our home for the night, Shira Cave Camp, which turned out to be my favorite camp of the whole trip. This camp was sprawling and wide open, with no tree coverage and the top of Kilimanjaro watching over us. We got introduced to the local pied crows, who were enormous and scavenging all over camp for scraps of food. Katie felt they could see the future, and I had to agree - they reminded me of the three-eyed raven’s crows from Game of Thrones, and they would not be the last reminder of that fantastical world.
We Just Got Here - We’re Hiking Again?
Once we arrived at camp around 1:30pm, we took a few minutes to settle ourselves in the tent and wash up with the bowls of hot water delivered by Jimmy. Danny and I each took a moment to lie down and take in the view outside our tent, which was layers of mountain and sweeping skies. We heard Katie’s infectious laughter from outside the tent, and references to the Wizard of Oz movie. We would soon know what caused it when she showed us the photo she snapped that gave Wicked Witch of the West vibes. All washed up and ready for lunch, we headed into the mess tent where we had an amazing feast. We were all properly hungry for this meal which included toasted cashews, a lightly seasoned pasta, fried chicken, and an egg salad type dish served on top of jackfruit (incredible, punchy flavors). We all ate our fill and then took a well deserved rest in our tents before the next part of the afternoon.
After our rest time, we got ourselves ready for our short acclimation hike to get us around 13,000 feet. Our camp was at 12,598 feet, and one of the best ways to acclimate your body is to hike high and sleep low. On our way to the trail we signed in at the ranger station and saw the first helipad of the trip, which at this camp was marked with yellow-painted rocks in a small clearing. There was a helipad at every camp for the remainder of the trek for quick transport in case of emergency. As we got started on the trail we learned why the camp was called Shira Cave Camp. We passed a small cave that Abuu told us was originally used by porters for shelter during Kilimanjaro treks. We walked in the cave, mostly bent over at the waist, although there were a couple spots where I could almost stand up straight. It extended about 30 feet in and was about 20 feet wide - definitely big enough to fit a dozen or more porters inside if needed.
These acclimation hikes are common among trekking outfitters who really want to ensure their clients have the highest chance of summiting, so we passed by a few other groups along the way. There was another group of about 15 people in the “picture spot” when we arrived at the overlook that was our destination, and their guide was leading them in a chant that we would also adopt on summit night. The guide would call and the group would respond with, “Hip (hop) hip (hop) nonstop (to the top) nonstop (to the top).” It definitely brought a smile to my face anytime I heard it. While we waited for our turn to take a group picture, we took in the views of camp out in the distance, which looked like little colorful dots amid the rough and rocky landscape of the campsite.
As we started our descent back to camp, I passed by a guy that I sat next to on the plane from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro. On the plane, we talked about how we were both doing the Machame Route and starting on the same day. We thought how crazy it would be if we ran into each other along the trail. I forgot to mention in the Day One post that we saw him and his son at the Machame Gate where we ate lunch before starting the trek the first day, and we had wished each other the best of luck. Seeing him again at Shira Cave Camp was such a fun surprise, and we briefly celebrated having gotten that far before saying our goodbyes and giving each other well wishes. We wouldn’t see each other again, but as this was his second climb of Kilimanjaro, I’m confident they made it to the top.
An extra pep in my step from seeing my friend from the plane (what are the chances at that exact timing?), and content with our time at the top of our acclimation hike, we returned to camp where our entire crew was waiting for us.
Kilimanjaro? Hakuna Matata!
We had yet to meet our entire crew, and we were so excited to see all 19 of them waiting for us back at camp. Abuu told us it was time to sing, dance, and celebrate this amazing adventure, and I felt myself get overwhelmed with joy before we even began. Our chef, Salim, led the songs in Swahili and the crew joined in, in a call and response type of way. They sang the “Kilimanjaro Song”, which talks about how we are welcome at Kilimanjaro, how to go slowly slowly, and that it is “no problem”. They also sang a song that listed off all the camps along the Machame Route, saying “hakuna matata” after each one.
Our incredible crew!
During this song they also pulled each of us one by one into the center of the circle and paired us with a porter to get our dance on. I had tears in my eyes throughout the whole thing, just so happy to be on this journey, singing and dancing and being fully in the moment. There is something so magical about the Swahili language, the way it feels round and warm and welcoming, and how it’s almost impossible to speak it without smiling. When the crew was singing in Swahili, it was pure food for my soul and heart - I just felt full to the brim of love and gratitude and joy. Even writing about it now, over a month later, I have tears in my eyes at the memory.
It’s very hard to get 25 people to look at the camera at the same time. This was our amazing crew!
After the song and dance were done, Abuu had the entire crew share their names with us then brought a few people into the center for specific recognition. These three men were Salim (our chef), Jimmy (our waiter), and Seif (our porter caring for our bathroom setup - a true gem). He asked if any of our group wanted to say anything to the crew, and after a few stares at each other between Danny, Katie, Kim, and myself, I jumped in. I shared with them how thankful we were to be on this adventure and how grateful we were that they made us so welcome in their country. I wanted them to know that we were so happy to be with them and that we were already so thankful for their help and guidance. I’m not sure how many of them understood what I was saying, but I hope they could tell from the emotion and tone of my voice, and the hands over my chest, that I was genuinely sharing from the depths of my heart.
Singing the Kilimanjaro Song!
Winding Down Day Two
After our song and dance and a bit of a rest, it was somehow time to eat again. It had been a few hours since lunch and I wasn’t yet hungry, although I did manage to eat a bit more. Anytime we could physically eat we did, since one of the side effects of high altitude is losing your appetite. We were trying to load ourselves up with calories as best as we could, anytime we could. Dinner that night was soup (a nightly tradition!), rice with shredded carrots, bread, and a vegetable stew. I think the soup was broccoli or leek that night, and it was always our first course. We would sip the soup from our little white bowls, and reflect on the day.
Our dinner on night two!
We shared our highs and lows for Day Two, and a shared high between all four of us was the singing and dancing with the crew. Seeing the nineteen people that were making this trip possible for us four, and sharing in joy and laughter with them, was a moment we will never forget. We had our second health check for the day and our briefing for Day Three around 7:30pm. At the evening health check, my blood oxygen was at 94 and my heart rate at 93, both still in solid shape. We got the same times for the next morning (wake up, hot water, breakfast, departure) and did a short review of the next day’s hike, which included reaching the highest point I’d ever been
Hearts full, eyes misty, and excitement at an all time high, we wandered the camp a bit before turning in for the night. I snapped what may be the best picture I’ve ever taken - the bright yellow porter’s tent against the dark, layered wilderness of Mount Kilimanjaro. The evening was clear and the sun had set behind the peak of Kilimanjaro, giving us yet another view to take in with wonder and awe. It was like the peak was watching over us that night, giving us strength, and always reassuring us that we can do hard things. Ready for what I hoped would be a restful night of sleep, we all brushed our teeth, did our last bathroom breaks, and spent some time beneath the sparkling night sky before climbing into our tents for the night.
Day Two behind us, and getting all cozied up in my sleeping bag, I was feeling fueled, happy, confident, and excited for what was to come.
Day Two Stats
Day Two starting elevation at Machame Camp: 9842 feet
Hiking distance: 3.1 miles, 2756 feet of elevation gain
Day Two ending elevation at Shira Cave Camp: 12,598 feet
Highs and Lows
A nightly tradition during dinner was to share our Highs and Lows for the day. It was always a fun way to recap the day and see what everyone took away from it. Sometimes one person’s Low was another person’s High. I’ll share my own Highs and Lows for each day at the end of every blog post.
Day Two Low: the persistent chest pains I had, which turned out to be heartburn
Day Two High: overall feeling much better than yesterday, and of course the crew singing and dancing with us
Health Checks
Morning Check at 7:30am - Blood oxygen: 98 | Heart rate: 94
Evening Check at 7:30pm - Blood oxygen: 94 | Heart rate: 93
Note To Reader
If you are reading this purely for entertainment, awesome! This disclaimer does not apply to you. If you are reading this in preparation for your own climb of Kilimanjaro, it’s important for me to note the following things. Before my climb of Kilimanjaro:
I was living in Colorado at an elevation of 5350 feet above sea level
I was in excellent physical condition and was 36 years old
I did not smoke, rarely drank alcohol and did not have any for two months prior to the trip, and did not have any other medical issues
I had been hiking to elevations above 12,000 feet for years and hiked in the mountains every weekend for three months before the trek
I physically trained for a year before my trek through cardio and weight training at OrangeTheory Fitness
I had a lot of gear already, although I did purchase a lot
Why do I include this information? Because research will be a part of your trip preparation and you’ll most likely read a lot of blog posts like this. A trend that I saw in my own research was that people didn’t include their personal background before giving advice or recaps of their own trip. To best understand my experience, I want to give you a basic understanding of me as a human, and the benefits I had before embarking on this journey. This may help you better prepare for and relate to the experiences I had along the trail.